Antonio Ortega’s 2017 Spring-Summer collection is inspired by the notions of hybrids, beauty and the martyr.
The elegance of the 1930s affronts the pictorial esthetic of a crucified Christ.
The scene opens on a clerical circus where pain and suffering hide behind the exaltation of beauty and creation. A dialogue on the normality of revealing pain through a collection both created and distorted by the striking blows of a hand.
But through the morbidity and horror of a bloody, bruised body, the voyeur glimpses a luminous, dynamic dance emerge from a colourful and textured clamour. A dance where silk crepe, cotton, cotton canvas, chiffon, silk shantung and taffeta, are highlighted by the openwork, embroidery and other revisited techniques that are Ortega’s trademark.
The collection exposes two universes at first glance utterly contrasted, through constructions, cuts, flowing lines and stained glass beadwork. Frenetic creation where lashes of a whip, either planned and carefully thought through, or completely spontaneous and unexpected, expose traces of the designer’s draft notes and patterns.
The martyr of the beauty … or the beauty of the martyr?